Balkan Adventure Biking Croatia

Loving the Lavender: Cycling Hvar

Cycling in the sunset on Hvar
Written by Kirstie Pelling

Loving the Lavender: Cycling Hvar, Croatia

Kirstie Profile SmallAfter the strangeness of Split it feels good to get on our bikes. We’re all keen to see how we get on with the Croatian heat and hills. One of the joys of touring the Croatian coast is visiting islands dipped in sunshine and summer. And rumour has the island of Hvar is the one that will slow your heartbeat. Rich with lavender, olives, and honey, it is a feast for the senses and a treat for an island hopper; especially if you like to arrive by pirate boat. But don’t forget your lilo; it’s a must have accessory apparently…   

Ahoy there Pirates

Tourist  Boat arriving on Island of Hvar

One of the endless procession of tourist boats that call in at Jelsa to dump tourists for 2 hours on Hvar.

The seaside village of Jelsa has more flip flops on display than a beachwear fashion show. It also has a continual seaside holiday vibe. The small settlement is full to bursting point on this hot summer morning. The villas are full, the restaurants busy with people doing nothing, and more and more holidaymakers pour in every hour. While the big cruise ships like the Celebrity have to hang out far off shore or in the harbour of nearby Split, the packed little party boats work their way around islands like this from early morning every day. Bringing fun and europop and people with a fist full of Kunas. And beach towels and blown up lilo’s.

Lavender Island me hearties

Everyone carries a lilo like a handbag here. The party boats are modelled on picture book-schooners and pirate ships and they disgorge passengers with a slip of paper telling them when they need to be back on board. Because they don’t hang around for long. More island paradises are on the schedule. They stay just long enough for passengers to have ice cream, loll on their lilo or buy some lucky lavender.

Actually you’re the lucky one if you can avoid the lavender sellers. Because the way to take your lavender on Hvar is naturally and free. And the way to really see this glorious island, if you don’t mind a few hills, is by bicycle. The roads are gentle and quiet, and the view, as you rise out of the bays, makes your beating heart slow down. Mind you it can take a while after the exertions of climbing. But when the rocky outcrops fall away to the strikingly blue sea, you soon leave the Caribbean style beach umbrellas of the local bars far behind. And stillness descends.

Beach near Jelsa on Hvar Croatia

Not all the Hvar beaches are overun with tourists.

Time to walk the plank

When we first disembark from the ferry, it’s just a short ride to the picturesque village of Stari Grad, with its church that was a cathedral until the bishop moved out. Perhaps we’re looking at the smallest cathedral in the world? And a bell tower next door that Quasimodo would have died for.

Stari Grad, Hvar

We ride around the square in Stari Grad, silenced by its ancient stone, Cameron testing out his new rig while Matthew tries to get in his way.

We take an off road route, through the vineyards. Blackberries tangle with grapes and we pull them off the bushes, trying to curb our thirst. We pass a nudist camp and wish we were braver. At a bay we pull on swimming costumes and choke on the salty blue.

We need a lilo!

“Mum, can we have one?” asks Hannah for the fiftieth time.

Mad dogs and Englishmen

We reluctantly take on the island’s main hill in the heat of the day. We fuel up in the last beach bar and then huff and puff in the heat until we are high above the settlements. Here, it looks like times have been hard and the sun harsh. Little squares of land lie abandoned and the flies crowd around litter bins that look like they won’t be filled or emptied until eternity. We try to find some shade in the heat but the flies find us instead.

Climbing the hill on Hvar Croatia

Climbing Hvar’s hills in the heat is a challenge that demands some cooling improvisation.

Eventually we are at the top and we fly down. Patches of warm and cold air mingle with wafts of lavender. There are unripe figs and olives on the trees. Little settlements appear out of nowhere, framed by a halo of sun. A local entrepeneur tends a stand in her front garden with home made honey and olive oil. Neither will work for us, but we plunder her fridge for cold drinks and ice cream.

Olive oil for sale on Hvar

Olive oil for sale on Hvar

The lavender does its stuff

We hope to reach the ferry at Sucuraj, at the other end of the island, but night is falling and we still have 20km to pedal. We set up a bivvy camp in some olive trees away from the road. We lie under the stars in cotton sheets and watch for the odd star to tumble to earth. The ground is hard from the endless Croatian sunshine.

Camping on Hvar

We pitch our tent in an olive grove to sweat the night away.

“I told you we should have bought a lilo,” says Hannah.

But we have no problems drifting off. This is lavender island after all. Purple smells drift in and out of our consciousness, and someone turns the volume on the cicadas down for long enough for us to grab some sweet scented sleep.

Sucuraj on Hvar

Sucuraj is the tiny port at the far Eastern tip of Hvar, and our route back to the Croatian mainland by ferry.

About the author

Kirstie Pelling

Kirstie is the Editor of The Family Adventure Project. A professional writer and poet, she's the creative and journalistic force behind many of the stories and features published here. She's a co-founder and co-director of The Family Adventure Project and also works as the #poetinmotion producing and performing poetry for print, video and live performance.


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We're Kirstie & Stuart. We share an adventurous spirit, a passion for indie travel and 3 kids. The Family Adventure Project is our long term experiment in doing active, adventurous things together. Find out more...


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