Days Out England

Things to Do in Kirkby Lonsdale: Coffee, Cake, Views, Vaults and Malts

Kids at Devil's Bridge
Written by Kirstie Pelling

Top Things to Do in Kirkby Lonsdale:
Coffee, Cake, Views, Vaults and Malts

In their rush to get to the honeypot towns of the Lake District, many people overlook the charms of Kirkby Lonsdale. Located thirteen miles from Kendal, within easy reach of the Dales and the Lakes, it’s an unsung part of Cumbria. But locals know that come rain or shine, this Cumbrian market town is a characterful, eclectic place with a relaxed vibe. It has a view revered by famous artists, the shops are almost all chain free, and its doors and alleyways cry out to be photograped. It also has stories, legends, friendly locals and more bars than you can crawl in a week. Luckily I live on the doorstep, so let me show you around and give you my itinerary of the best things to do in Kirkby Lonsdale…

Kirkby Lonsdale cats

Kirkby Lonsdale is cool for cats

20 of the best things to do in Kirkby Lonsdale

1 View Turner’s landscape

Few will argue about Ruskin’s View being one of the best landscapes in Cumbria. The view changes according to the weather; on a sunny day the river sparkles in the heat and on a winter’s evening the Lune Valley seems to be painted every shade of purple. The scene was captured by the British artist Turner in 1822, and artist and poet John Ruskin was so taken with Turner’s interpretation that he wrote: “I do not know in all my country, still less in France or Italy, a place more naturally divine.”’ Later he described it as “one of the loveliest views in England, therefore in the world.” It’s also worth heading off down the Radical Steps (not named by accident, getting back up them is a challenge for the unfit or out of breath) and taking a riverside walk.

 

Hot air balloon over Ruskin's View

Hot air balloon over Ruskin’s View. Image by Robin Ree

2 Visit the vault

The Vault Story Bank is Kirkby’s latest attraction. You can find it in the former bank on Main Street, now the Visitor Information Centre. This interactive exhibit at the back of the shop is free and quite intimate; the volunteer  on duty tells me this time last year the bank’s old vault was being used as their stationary cupboard, and required a hasty clear out, “But it’s interesting, for the locals as well.” The Vault is open seven days a week, from 10.30-4pm. You simply choose an object and scan it on the desk to trigger one of seven short films, where local actors pop up to tell their stories, fill you in on past history, or in the case of  Turner and Ruskin, have a bit of a tussle about another attraction.

“They don’t call it Turner’s View no more.”

“What do they call it?”

“Ruskin’s View.”

Awkward…

The Vault attraction, Kirkby Lonsdale

The small and perfectly formed Vault attraction, Kirkby Lonsdale. Image by The Family Adventure Project

3 Eat posh gelato in a milking parlour

Don’t be put off by the queues on a hot day;  The Milking Parlour is worth the wait.  Owners Sarah and Ed Beattie make their ‘artisan ice cream’ from an authentic Italian recipe, sourcing the milk from the family farm down the road in Burrow. The flavours are seasonal and a mix of what you might expect and what you might not. Sea salt caramel is their best seller but the Kendal Mint Cake goes well too. You can have it with warm waffles or in an ice cream milk shake and there’s some space to eat in if its raining; it’s particularly popular with people staying in the local caravan parks who pop by for a week’s supply in a takeaway tub.  Ed comes out from behind the industrial machine in the back to tell me the idea came about after a family meeting at a time when the milk price dropped.

“It was absolutely diabolical. We came away and thought what can we do?”

Sarah says the good whether for the last two years has been a real bonus.

“We opened in one of the hottest summer in years and that saw us through the winter.” When I spoke to them the couple were doing up a cattle trailer to take their gelato on the road, so you may well find it in a town near you soon.

The Milking Parlour, Kirkby Lonsdale

Sarah and  Ed Beattie at The Milking Parlour, Kirkby Lonsdale. Image by The Family Adventure Project

4 Relax with a butty at Devil’s Bridge

The legend of Devil’s Bridge is a very tall tale involving a cow, a dog, an old lady, a bun and a not very happy ending involving brimstone. Can I suggest you head down there on a Sunday morning, grab a cup of tea and a bacon sandwich from the green striped butty van, and either Google it or find a local to recount the tale? The bridge spans the River Lune to the south and east of Kirkby Lonsdale and is a three arched beauty thought to date from the 12th or 13th century. If you want a good photograph, follow the gentle path down to the river from the gateway on the left of the bridge (as you approach it from the town) and get a shot looking back through the bridges. There’s free parking although this is a popular picnic spot so in the summer you’ll need to get here early to park up. Local photographer Robin Ree says he regularly does the circuit. “We love the River Lune walk. Start from the Devils Bridge heading upstream to climb Radical steps ( known locally as 99 steps) leading up to Ruskins view. Alternatively head up Mill Brow past The Manor House, Kirkby’s oldest building.”

People chilling at Devil's Bridge

People chilling at Devil’s Bridge. Check out the arch through the arch! Image by Robin Ree.

5 Enjoy a sweet treat

Chocaholics do not worry. You will not need to pack a ton of it in your suitcase. Kirkby Lonsdale attractions feature a specialist chocolate shop, Chocolat, with its own enchanted chocolate mine downstairs. There’s also a traditional sweet shop packed with jars. If you are a big family then maybe split and do half each. The sweet shop is too full of bon-bons to squeeze in more than about three or four customers and there’s strict ban on the number of school kids. But make sure to send at least one adult to the chocolate shop as there’s a large selection of chocolate and fudge infused liquors.

Jingling Barn

A stroll past Jingling Barn leads to a sweet shop. How cute is that?

6 Stroll Salt Pie Lane

Who wouldn’t want to live in a Pepper Pot Cottage on a Salt Pie Lane? Sadly only one person can do this. The rest of us just wander it and dream. For your information the alley is named after a woman who sold salted pies. Hopefully there was something else inside them as well!

Flowers on Salt Pie Lane

Flowers on Salt Pie Lane. Image by The Family Adventure Project

7 Get sporty

Kirkby has a clutch of rugby teams and you can see them in action at the club just out of town. On a Sunday morning the juniors practice and you can pop in for a bacon butty and a spot of supporting. Alternatively you could try and catch some cricket practice at the pitch near the river. I’m also told the local golf club is worth a visit and has been mentioned in several magazines.

Kirkby Lonsdale rugby team

One of the Kirkby Lonsdale rugby teams, taken when they were unbeatable in the 2017 season. Image by Robin Ree

8 Taste real ale at the Royal Barn

One of the more enterprising projects in Kirkby Lonsdale is focussed on beer. The start of a new craft beer company was followed by the Royal Barn;  a place to meet other enthusiasts and try a few ales. The first beer produced was ‘Ruskins’ and many have a local theme. The Barn has 12 hand pulls and 8 keg taps as well as over 60 different craft beers. They also do a good value occasional cinema night.

Royal Barn interior

Royal Barn interior decked out for Halloween. Image by The Family Adventure Project

9 Lunch local and well at The Crossing Point

If you need a reminder that Kirkby Lonsdale does good cake, check out the sign below. The Crossing Point was built up by Renata and John Strange.John managed restaurants for chefs such as Simon Rogan before opening his own place. Their legacy continues with a partnership of two sisters and their husbands. There is home baking and the sisters produce a range of good soups; sometimes up to five at a time. Vegans are also catered for. 

Coffee sign

Renata’s sign says what many of us have always thought….

10 Lounge with a book

The book lounge is a staple of the Kirkby Lonsdale high street and a great place to go hen it’s windy and raining.  You can sit in front of the fire, and read, with one of the best lattes in town. The Book Lounge sells both new and second hand books, and has lots of Harry Potter related products. “The idea is it’s a nice relaxed place to be and you can take your time and there’s no rush,” says the owner Valerie Laycock as she makes me a brew. The shop has some fun features; check out the counter made out of books, the huge clocks, made out of er…books, and the staircase. “Please enjoy looking at the staircase, but be aware it leads nowhere,” says the sign in case you get overexcited.

The Book Lounge- one of our top 20 things to do in Kirkby Lonssdale

The Book Lounge

11 Shop for local produce at the market

On Thursdays the square in the centre of Kirkby becomes car free for the Charter Market. Regular street food stalls feature int he mix ranging from hog roast, to sourdough toasties (look out for the cute tuk tuk.) Alberto Provino does a great sparking Italian Reisling and you can also buy plants, socks and jewellery. There’s also a Country Market in Lunesdale Hall in the morning. 

Market in the square; one of 20 things to do in Kirkby Lonsdale

Market in the square at Easter; one of 20 things to do in Kirkby Lonsdale

12 Take a selfie or catch a movie set

Kirkby Lonsdale is so charming it can feel like a movie set and when film companies roll in, it actually becomes one. The most popular location for filming is the market square which has been dressed as Jamaica Inn amongst other things. Not so long ago Universal Pictures used the town as the backdrop for the new Voyage of Dr Doolittle film. Here’s some of the cast and crew waiting for their call to action outside Plato’s. Sadly the star Robert Downey Jr failed to appear, despite much wishful thinking.

Set of Dr Doolittle

Set of Dr Doolittle.  But where’s the A lister when he’s needed for a coffee? Image by The Family Adventure Project

13 Have coffee in Plato’s

Talking of Plato’s, it’s a great spot for morning coffee. Kids and dogs are welcome in this friendly bistro. There are fresh croissants if you fancy a bit of breakfast, and we recently tasted one of the best Bakewell tarts around.

 
Sheep on hills at Hutton Roof

What no cake up here?

14  Grab a burger at The Orange Tree

A few doors down, the Orange Tree pub does great burgers and fries at a great price. That’s all you need to know.

Bicycle of flowers on Kirkby Lonsdale High Street

A bicycle of flowers brightens Kirkby Lonsdale high street. It’s that kind of place…

15 Take a guided town walk 

Kirkby Lonsdale Visitor Information Centre has a website that can keep you up to date with everything going on, including a variety of festivals. (There’s a spoken word festival coming on the 26th and 27th September 2020 and the Christmas Fair and Markets will be back by popular demand (see below.) The tourist centre has also trained up five town guides to lead you around Kirkby in a 40 minute tour. They will bring to life the history of Salt Pie Lane, the monument, the church of St Mary’s and more, in a forty minute tour. Pop in to book, or visit the Kirkby Lonsdale website for more information on the town

Kirkby Lonsdale brass band

Kirkby Lonsdale brass band

16 See Santa

One of the biggest and best festivals in Kirkby Lonsdale is the Christmas Fair weekend. It twinkles for three days with indoor and outdoor stalls, a parade, and of course the big man himself. Last year there was a magical theme, around 20 bands and buskers and pop up delights such as comedy Christmas crackers. Watch this space for details about 2020 plans. 

Market Cross, Kirkby Lonsdale

The Christmas fayre takes place beneath the Market Cross which hosts a grotto.

17  Stay at The Royal

The Royal Hotel is an institution in Kirkby; a restored Georgian town house hotel in the main square. Relax in the snug with the papers or have a chilled G and T and plan your stay.

Cricket pitch

Anyone for cricket? Image by The Family Adventure Project

18 Visit St Mary’s

St Mary’s Church is a town landmark and a walk through the church yard will take you to the famous Ruskin’s View. The church itself is also worth a visit. Built mostly between the 11th and 12th centuries on the sit of an old Saxon church, the building has a range of architectural styles. Check out the three Norman columns in the north aisle, which have been compared to columns in Durham Cathedral. The tower has six bells, and they can often be heard ringing.

St Mary's Church, Kirkby Lonsdale

St Mary’s Church, Kirkby Lonsdale. Image by the Family Adventure Project

19 Stop for a chat at Lunesdale Bakery

While Kirkby Lonsdale is so weighted in history it was named in the Doomsday Book, it has more of a village feel. Many locals drop in for fresh bread and a chat at Lunesdale Bakery on the Main Street. In the winter the fire in the cafe is a gathering point. I highly recommend the wild boar sausage sandwich and drink deal on a cold Sunday morning.

Lunesdale bakery interior

Lunesdale Bakery before the crowds descend. Image by The Family Adventure Project

20 Join the bikers at the bridge

Staying with Sunday mornings, if you are a motorbike enthusiast, you’ll enjoy the atmosphere of the assembled bikers at Devil’s Bridge. They are quite the spectacle. Or you could bring your horse like the travellers that pass through on their way to the Appleby Fair every year.

Horse at Devil's Bridge

Most people bring motorbikes on a Sunday but not everyone. Image by The Family Adventure Project

Get out and about

Whether you have a car or a bike, why not make it a road trip and visit some nearby attractions and do some hiking and biking. Local options range from walking up Ingleborough to White Scar Caves. And with Kendal only a short hop away, it’s an ideal base for a Lakeland holiday. Do you have an attraction to add to this list? Leave a comment below and let us know.

Ruskin's View Kirkby Lonsdale

Ruskin’s View Kirkby Lonsdale. Image by The Family Adventure Project

 

More Reading: 

Fancy a Lake District scenic drive on one of Cumbria’s hairiest passes? We did!

How about an overnight camp on Skiddaw?

Alternatively take a yellow line cruise with Windermere Lake Cruises

Or paddle your own canoe on Windermere

Or for something totally different, but not too far away, here’s my 30 things to do in Morecambe  and 25 things to do in Appleby

 

About the author

Kirstie Pelling

Kirstie is the Editor of The Family Adventure Project. A professional writer and poet, she's the creative and journalistic force behind many of the stories and features published here. She's a co-founder and co-director of The Family Adventure Project and also works as the #poetinmotion producing and performing poetry for print, video and live performance.

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